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Setiyawan Setiyawan
Civil Engineering Department, Faculty of Engineering Tadulako University, Palu Indonesia
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Journal : Tadulako Science and Technology Journal

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CHARACTERISTICS OF BREAKING WAVES USING THE HINDCASTING METHOD ON MAMBORO BEACH, PALU CITY Nurul Salsabilah Rizkia Izmat; Setiyawan Setiyawan
Tadulako Science and Technology Journal Vol. 3 No. 1 (2022): TADULAKO SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY JOURNAL
Publisher : LPPM Universitas Tadulako

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.22487/sciencetech.v3i1.16005

Abstract

Introduction: Mamboro Beach is one of the beaches in the northern partof Palu City, Central Sulawesi Province, approximately 14 km from PaluCity. Wave activity, currents, tides, and winds are some of the triggers forsedimentation. Mamboro Beach is prone to sediment movement which canresult in shoreline changes such as erosion which results in the retreat ofthe shoreline (abrasion), or causes siltation which results in theadvancement of the shoreline (accretion). As a result of changes in theshape of the coast, it will affect the hydrodynamic processes of the waters,such as changes in the characteristics of ocean waves. This study aims todetermine the characteristics of the breaking waves, the height and depthof the breaking waves that occur on the Mamboro beach, Palu City usingthe Hindcasting method, the input required is bathymetry data, tides for 15days, wind data for 10 years (past), fetch data. From the results ofHindcasting calculations and analysis of wave transformation using winddata for 10 years (past), it can be concluded that the characteristics of thetype of Breaking Wave that occurred on the Mamboro beach, Palu City, isa surging type where the waves break right on the shore. The calculatedbreaking wave height is 2.0911 meters and the breaking wave depth is1.882 meters.
Co-Authors Nurul Salsabilah Rizkia Izmat